How a construction loan actually works
A construction loan — sometimes called a building loan — funds a build or a major renovation in stages rather than in one settlement. Money is released to your licensed builder, or to your owner-builder project, as each phase of work is completed. That staged structure is what makes it a different instrument to a standard home loan written against an existing property, and it is the part that trips people up when they assume one is just a variation of the other.
Building a home is a multi-disciplinary exercise. It pulls together builders, contractors, accountants, solicitors, architects, surveyors, councils and lenders, and it has to hold together across every one of them. A home-and-land package buys you a degree of certainty by collapsing several of those moving parts into a single contract — but it is not the only path, and you are not obliged to take it. The right approach depends on the build you are doing and the contract you can secure, not on a rule of thumb.
The reason this matters from a lending standpoint is that the contract and the loan are read together. Errors and ambiguities in a building contract are common, and they have a habit of becoming finance problems later — a valuation that does not match the tender, a variation that triggers a full reassessment, a missing finance clause. Construction loans typically take a little longer to settle than a loan for an existing property, precisely because the lender is underwriting something that does not yet exist. Getting the contract clean before it reaches the lender is the single most useful thing you can do.
Progress payments and how the loan is drawn
Once a construction loan is approved and the build is underway, the lender releases funds as progress payments tied to defined stages. The builder lodges a claim, the work may be assessed, and payment is made directly to the builder on completion of each stage. The common stages are:
- Slab or base. Foundation work — levelling the ground, the concrete slab, and the plumbing and waterproofing of the foundation.
- Frame. The frame itself, plus partial brickwork, roofing, trusses and windows.
- Lockup. External walls, windows and doors fitted — the point at which the house can be locked and secured.
- Fitout or fixing. Internal fittings and fixtures: plastering or rendering, part-installation of cupboards and benches, plumbing, electricity and gutters.
- Practical completion. Final contracted items, builder and equipment payments, and the finishing touches — plumbing, electrical, and a clean.
Because the loan is drawn down progressively, interest is generally calculated only on the funds actually released. You pay for what the lender has advanced to the builder, not the full approved amount. Most lenders will also let you make interest-only repayments through the construction period, which keeps your monthly obligation contained until the home is finished and the loan rolls to its ongoing terms.
The amount released at each stage is set as a percentage of the total cost to complete. A representative schedule looks like this:
- Deposit: 5%
- Slab or base: 15%
- Frame: 20%
- Lockup: 20%
- Fitout or fixing: 30%
- Practical completion: 10%
The Northern Territory applies a slightly different schedule:
- Deposit: no more than 5%
- Slab or base: 10%
- Frame: 20%
- Enclosed: 25%
- Fixing: 30%
- Practical completion: 7%
- Final completion: 3%
One practical consequence is worth flagging: around 80–90% of the loan is typically drawn by the lockup stage, even though completion may still be months away — longer if weather delays the build. That front-loading is normal, and it is part of why the interest-only arrangement through construction matters to your cash flow.
How long a build takes
Timelines vary from builder to builder, so it pays to research the market before you commit. For a standard scheduled home-and-land build with a reputable builder, a rough guide from start to each milestone runs:
- Slab or base: about 2 weeks
- Frame: 3–4 weeks
- Lockup: 4 weeks
- Fitout or fixing: 5–6 weeks
- Practical completion: 7–8 weeks
These are indicative, not promises — the builder's capacity, the weather and the council all move the dates. We are happy to talk through builders we have dealt with who have shown consistent, quality work.
Having the lender pay the builder directly
In most cases the lender pays the builder on your behalf, which removes you from the mechanics of each transaction. The sequence runs:
- Invoice. The builder issues an invoice for completed work — a progress claim — which should only be raised once a stage is genuinely complete.
- Drawdown request. You sign the drawdown request form your lender provides.
- Send to lender. The drawdown form and the invoice go to your lender's construction department.
- Valuation. The lender may require a valuation to confirm the work is done, which can involve an on-site visit by an assessor.
- Payment. Funds are usually advanced to the builder within about five working days.
Before you approve any drawdown, walk through the property and confirm the work matches the claim. Bring a suitably qualified person with you if you need help assessing it. Do not approve a drawdown for work that has not been completed to your satisfaction — and consult the lender when a decision like that needs to be made. The drawdown is your control point; treating it as a formality is how problems get paid for.
The documentation a lender will want
You will first need to be approved for the loan itself. Construction loans are generally available up to 95% LVR, which may include lenders mortgage insurance (LMI). The supporting documentation is where construction lending gets exacting.
Building contract. This is the spine of the whole arrangement. It sets out the term, the drawdown schedule, the conditions, the final construction price and the inclusions. Do not sign a building contract without a subject to finance approval provision, and look for a builder who refunds any deposit paid — many home-and-land providers take a deposit to hold a block of land and, depending on their size and demand, will offer that refund clause. Where the clause is absent you may sign a draft contract instead. Either way the lender will require the contract and will value the home as if it were already fully built.
The contract should match the tender where the lender requires it. If the figures differ — even by a small amount — a full reassessment can be triggered. The same applies to variations: a change to the contract, even a minor one in dollar terms, can send the lender back to assessing your application as if it were new. Lock the final contract down before it goes in.
The lender will also want the building plans. They do not have to be council-approved at this stage, but it helps — and it protects you from surprise costs buried in the design. And they will want the specifications: the fixtures and finishes such as ducted air conditioning, the tiles, the benchtops and the integrated fittings. The specs let the lender value the property as the completed dwelling it will become.
Quotes for supplemental or additional works. Not every build includes a driveway, basic landscaping or retaining walls. Make those costs visible to the lender rather than discovering them later. If you are using a house-and-land builder, look for a firm fixed-price build — an all-inclusive cost with no surprises beyond the agreed price.
Before the first drawdown, a lender will typically require:
- Signed building contract — the finalised, executed contract.
- Quantity surveyor report — depending on the lender and the property value, usually for builds above roughly $1 million.
- Council-approved plans — approval can take anywhere from about 6 to 14 weeks depending on your state and council, so action this early; it is one of the most common causes of delay to both the loan and the build.
- Builder's insurance — evidence of Builder's All Risk Insurance (covering the building during construction), Domestic/Home Warranty insurance (covering non-completion by a registered builder through death, insolvency or disappearance), and Public Liability Insurance (covering property damage and injury). A home-and-land package builder will usually have these ready to hand.
Land loan, grants and guarantors
If you are buying the land before you commit to building, it can make sense to split the borrowing into a land loan and a construction loan so funds are advanced only as they are needed. Any LMI that applies is generally payable on land settlement.
You may qualify for a government grant toward the purchase, and any applicable grant should be claimed at the time of your home loan application — we will walk you through that process.
A family pledge (family guarantee) product is the only mechanism that lets you borrow up to 100% of the loan amount, but it is genuinely difficult to arrange alongside a construction loan. If that is the direction you are considering, it is worth a conversation before you assume it is available.
Construction lending rewards getting the structure right early — the contract, the documentation, the drawdown schedule and the order you do things in. If you are weighing a build, it is worth mapping properly: which lender's policy fits your contract, how the loan should be drawn, and where the avoidable delays sit.
Book a strategy session and we will work through your borrowing position and the structure that suits the build you are doing.
General information only — not personal financial product or credit advice. Lending is subject to each lender's policy, your full circumstances and responsible-lending assessment. AeFin is an Australian Credit Representative (CR 464548) of Finsure (ACL 384704).
